Two Lanes, Top Down, Green Dots: Day 2: John Day, OR to Walla Walla, WA

DAY 2

miles 238 ( 868 total)
two lanes 152 ( 621 total)
top down 238 ( 868 total)

I awoke shortly before 5 am as the June sun can through a crack in the curtain. On the eastern end of each time zone the sun rises earlier and sets earlier than on the western side of the time zone. I tossed and turned and finally about 5:45 I got up. Linda stayed in bed and went back to sleep. I showered and then took the camera and computer and headed to find a coffee shop. As I was about to cross a side street there was a pickup partially blocking the crosswalk. The driver was in his 60’s with a well trimmed white beard. He realized be was in the crosswalk and backed up a waved me to cross. I was clearly not in the Bay Area. I then went down ½ block on US 20 and saw a man enter a coffee shop called The Outpost. I studied it for a moment, and then a voice from across the street hollered (at 5:45 am) “You lookin’ for good coffee? If so, that’s the place.” I realized it was the same man who had waved me across the street.

The coffee was very good. But the internet did not work. I sipped two cups in silence for about 20 minutes, letting in sink in that was truly was on vacation.

I then paid my tab ($1.50) and walked back to the breakfast room at the hotel. It had opened and when I entered it was almost full -- all men off to work in the area or back on the road. At the table next to me at three sat men who appeared learned, although dressed fot the woods. As he conversation evolved it became clear that they worked for the US Forest Service. They were arboreal pathologists (their words). They were kind of tree doctors, but only in the way one might be a doctor in a disaster. In a disaster rescue workers have four color ribbons: black, red, yellow and green. Black is for the dead or those likely to die; red who have a good chance for survival if they get medical attention immediately; yellow for those with minor injuries who need medical care, but only after the reds are tended to; and green who have bumps or scrapes who don’t need medical attention.

These guys only carried ‘black ribbons”. They drove along roads, into campgrounds, and around homes looking for diseased tress that are at risk of falling with loss of life or property. Then the chain saws followed them. But it was a disaster, just like a medical one. To quote the oldest, about 60 with broad shoulders and a modest belly: “I just feel bad we can’t get to them all. There are so many trees around campgrounds that sway badly in the wind. You just know one of them is going to fall on a camper someday before we can identify it and remove it.”

Leaving John Day, we drove through meadows, over ridges and more meadows. Everything was green. In many places wildflowers were plentiful. About 11:30 we reached the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center () just east of Baker City, OR. Incredible. This tells the story of the Oregon Trail. Just 2 miles from the center the wagon tracks are still visible, 165 years later. The wagons so heavy, the wagons so many, that for long stretches nothing grows in the ruts this many years later.

We left on westbound I-84 (last freeway for 3 weeks) for the 85 mile drive to Pendleton the up to Milton-Freewater, OR, Lunch was The Oasis. This is written about in the book Roadfood. Sprawling with four dining rooms, all full on a weekend night, it is known for The Oasis Burger. 1/3 pound ground beef, two pieces of thick cut egg bread toast (actually grilled with mayo on the sides like a grille cheese sandwich), and on top of the meat was a pile of diced bacon, tomatoes, local sweet onions and shredded cheddar. It was wonderful. Did I mention the fries were perfect? Then I took a Lipitor. Maybe I should have taken two.

It was a one mile drive to the Washington border and only about one more mile to the first wineries of the Walla Walla AVA, Cold winters. Dry hot summers. A good spot for Bordeaux varietals. We tasted some killer Merlots, Cabs, and blends at wineries called Saviah, Northstar and Pepper Bridge. We then drove a few miles into Walla Walla to our B&B, the Inn at Blackberry Creek. They have three rooms in this 107 year old 3000 sq ft house. We had reserved the only available room yesterday. There were 112 reviews on tripadvisor.com. 110 were excellent. 2 were very good. One comment said, “It is the standard by which we judge all B&B’s!”

It did not let us down. Barbara, the owner and innkeeper was gracious. The rooms and gardens were beautiful.

We got settled and then walked 2 miles through the town to Main Street. Walla Walla dates back into the first half of the 19th century. Evangelical missionaries, the Whitmans, came here in 1836. They were killed by natives 11 years later. Whitman College was founded 50 or so years later. What used to be a center for wheat, is now a center for yuppie wine lovers. Main St. has been gentrified. We ate at the Olive Café. Great thin crust pizza antic salads. We drank local wine. Linda had a Cab Franc; I had a wonderful; Chardonnay by Rulo: fruit forward, light oak, light malactic. Good for what ails you.

Then we went down the block to Bright’s candy store and ice cream store. In business since 1934. OMG. The double chocolate fudge brownie ice cream was to die for. Anoher Lipitor. Then a two mile walk back to the inn. We would have had to have walked to Portland to wear off the ice cream.

Great day. Tomorrow………..Idaho? We’ll see.

John Day River Valley